Stefen,
I'm in Pack 4 now. When placing the starter motor into the block, I don't feel a snap type fit. It seems loose. Did you use some glue to hold it in place?
David

Never mind, I figured out the starter motor position.
David

A fellow many, many years ago taught me auto mechanics. He taught me a valuable lesson. When you're working on an engine and you're frustrated because nothing is working and you are standing with a ball peen hammer in your hand and you want to start pounding on the engine, put the hammer down, close the garage door and go in the house and have a beer. You can go back into the garage when you finish the beer. If you pick up the hammer again, repeat the previous with the beer, until you can go back and NOT pick up the hammer. I got to that stage with the left side exhaust pipes. Nothing was going right. I got the right side finished with no problems. So I went into reverse. Put all the pipes into the fixture that goes into the heads and work backwards. You can see by the picture, it's making sense to me. I've also included a picture of my garage, I have a mill and a lathe where I make working model steam engines. I'm going to make a jig to hold all the pipes in the order they go in a straight line, line up the other ends of the pipes into a circle, THEN glue them into the collector.
David

Stephen and Andreas,
I really need some helpful advice now. I'm a little disappointed and frustrated at the production of some of the parts not fitting like they should. I'm at the point of attaching the lower U shaped suspension mounts for the lower A arms at the rear. I was extremely disappointed in the screws they provided. The M screws (Schraube Typ M (M2,0x4 Rundkopf)) were too long. When I tightened the first screw, it seemed to bottom out real tight and the U mount was still very loose. I tried a little more and managed to break off the head of the screw with the rest still in the hole. I probably can JB Weld it on to the frame with the other U mount securely tightened up to hold the A arm in place. I'm even looking at buying some Metric taps to solve this problem. Before screwing in more screws, tap some threads into the hole so I won't have this problem any more. I can always use some LocTite Thread Locker to keep them secured. I hope you can help me.
David

Andreas, thank you for your response. Sure wish pre-cutting the holes with metric taps was taught BEFORE I started this model. You will see in the picture, the U mount on the left is secured and the area on the right is scuffed up. As I was using my Dremel rotary tool to drill out the hole and start over, I could not reduce the speed enough. In machining there is a term, "work hardening". A drill bit can create a lot of heat even with cutting fluid. This heat can harden the metal being drilled into (much like heating metal up to cherry red and then plunging it into water to harden the metal) and then it's impossible to finish the drilling. I believe this is what happened to me on that screw material left in the hole. The scuffing is so that when I mix up some more JB Weld, I will get a very secure bond when I secure the U mount. The mount on the left in the picture is secure enough to hold the lower A arm in place without putting too much pressure on the "glued" mount on the right. I went through the rest of the screw list and ordered metric taps for all the sizes I saw. The M2 taps I found online, came in 3 different pitches. M2-.25, M2-.4 and M2-.45. Bought the 3 along with M2.3 and M2.6 taps. I should be covered for the rest of this build.
Thank you and Stephen for all your help,
David

Thank you both for all your support
David

Also, can you teach me how to upload pictures so you can see them in the response page. I see that my photos come up as files and you have to click on them to see them. Stephan, your pages show the photos with having to open anything.
Dave

hello dave,

I mounted it the wrong way round.
I corrected that during the assembly.

greetings Stefan

Stephan,
I see you had the same problem as I did in Stage 58, Pack 7 with part number 1. After installation, the ends stuck far away from the chassis. Trying to install the doors without somehow gluing those ends down would have resulted in the doors not being able to open without catching on those ends. When I need a really strong bond I use an adhesive I learned about from my model metal machining. It's called Loctite 648 High Strength Adhesive. Putting 2 parts of metal that you machined to a snug fit and use this Loctite, IT AIN'T COMING APART. I mix some JB Weld along with a small dab of Loctite and so far whenever I've used it, the 2 parts haven't come apart.
Dave

hello David,

i will post the next reports this week

Greetings stefan